Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Now it's March!


I've become aware again just how bad I am at blogging. Maybe I can accomplish more than one post this month. So, since arriving here, our group from the Dickinson in Bremen program took a five-day trip to Vienna, I've found a church where I practice regularly, taken several weeks of German class at a language school called the Aristotle Institute, become (re)acquainted with the European soccer scene and consequently the Irish pubs in Bremen, generally spent time with the other kids in the program here, and visited my organ teacher Christoph and his wife Gertrud for a weekend. I already posted the pictures from Vienna on Facebook, but as a quick recap, we ate way too much schnitzel, or food in general (at least I did), visited St. Stephen's cathedral, including a climb of both towers and a tour of the crypt, experienced some of the Viennese coffee culture, took a tour of the first district, visited the Mozart house and the Freud house, took a tour of the Parliament building complete with nationalistic blurring of the truth, a tour of what I guess you would call in English the museum of national treasures (bling), visited the Art History museum, the Museum of Modern Art, the Belvedere Museum, the National Library, supposedly the happeningest bar in Vienna, and also a much less happening bar, where the friendly owner was very generous with his schnaps and cowboy hats. Since the Vienna trip, we've mostly been attending Sprachschule (German class) at various times of the day - I have it Mon/Tues/Thurs/Fri from 9AM-1PM, giving me the afternoons free to practice. I practice in the Christuskirche, which is conveniently located just down the street train line from the Aristotle Institute. There's a nice, medium-sized von Beckerath organ there, as well as a wonderful acoustic, which makes practicing very enjoyable. What has made it slightly less enjoyable is the intense cold, which the church is notorious for. The organist from whom I got my key to the church said, "sure, he can practice until his fingers freeze off!" Yes, practicing the organ is a winter sport sometimes in Germany, but I drew inspiration from watching the Olympics on tv. I've also discovered a trick with the single space heater by the organ: by placing it directly under the organ bench, it acts as a seat-heater and is much more effective at keeping me warm. The church where I have lessons, the Stephanikirche, also has a very nice Beckerath organ. If you happen to be interested in what I'm working on, I've been learning the Prelude and Fugue on Alain by Duruflé, the second Fantaisie by Alain, finishing up the Prelude and Fugue in C major BWV 547, and will continue working on the sixth trio sonata in G major when I'm done with that. I'm also excited to be doing a little work on free hymn accompaniments, since Christoph is a fantastic improviser. He agreed to work with me for ten minutes each lesson on it, but when I told him how I'd been playing hymns in the US, he said, "well, maybe we should spend fifteen minutes every lesson." I visited him and his wife at their home in Rheda-Wiedenbrück last weekend. It was wonderful as usual, with great food and wine. I helped them shovel snow after yet another snowstorm - they've had much more than their usual share in north Germany this winter. We did a little shopping at the town market, and I had a lesson in a church in Wiedenbrück. On Sunday, we drove to a little town named Stadtlohn that has a huge catholic church, where Christoph gave an improvisation concert on a modern interpretation of the stations of the cross. The artwork was projected on a screen (the actual pieces were on exhibit elsewhere), the artist said a few words about each, and Christoph gave his interpretations of them, ending with a glorious finale that built from the stillness of the tomb to the glorious resurrection, incorporating the tune Lasst uns erfreuen. It was a fantastic experience. The picture that I'm posting with this is of my apartment building here in Luisental. That's it for now, thanks for reading, and I'll post more pictures on facebook.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Arrival




Finally in Bremen! Now that I'm here, I'll be keeping some sort of account of my time here with this blog. After about 22 hours of total travel time, I arrived here on Tuesday around 2:30. I was picked up from the airport here by our program's coordinator and taken to my student apartment. After a little grocery shopping and rummaging in the program's storage room for furnishings for my room, I unpacked and settled in. It's been hovering just above freezing during the day, and well below at night, keeping the city an icy, slushy and muddy mess. The snow's been so bad in North Germany this winter that the country's running out of salt to salt the roads! They're having to import from Tunisia, or somewhere. Yesterday I met the other exchange students here with the Dickinson program - all very nice. One of them I know from high school when we were both exchange students in Germany! It was fun to see her again. The exciting upcoming event is our trip to Vienna for a week - starting next Tuesday! Just us nine exchange students, the program coordinator and the program's sponsor professor are going - the perfect size for a tour group. I think it'll give us all a change to properly get to know Vienna. After our meeting yesterday, we did a little shopping downtown and then headed back to the apartments. A little later, I came back into town to meet my friend and organ teacher for the semester, Christoph Grohmann, in the church where he teaches. We had coffee and cake and chatted about repertoire and possible churches where I might be able to practice. Today I did a little more shopping on my own, then went to a concert that was recommended to me by Christoph in St. Petri cathedral - Bremen's architectural centerpiece. The choir of the Music Conservatory (where I'll be taking a class or two and to which Christoph belongs as faculty) gave the concert, which was entitled, "Der Mensch lebt und bestehet nur eine kleine Zeit," (Man lives and exists only a short time) a fitting theme for the mood during these dreary winter months! The choir sang three motets from Brahms, op. 110, a piece called "Timor et tremor" from "Four motets for a time of penitence" by Poulenc, a piece called "The Lightfield" by the contemporary Swedish composer Karin Rehnquist, and a motet by Max Reger, the name of which was the source of the program's title. Then, cathedral organist Tobias Gravenhorst played a wonderful piece by Reger called Trauersode, or Ode of Sorrow/Grief, which ends beautifully with a peaceful, drawn-out statement of some chorale - I'll have to look it up. The cathedral has five organs, the largest of which was used for the concert - an organ by the German Romantic builder Sauer. It was amazing to hear Reger on a perfectly-suited instrument in such a wonderful acoustic, which I would estimate is about 4-5 seconds. It's always a wonderful shock to the senses to hear music live in a cathedral acoustic. The concert ended with a stunning piece by Mahler, transcribed for choir by Clytus Gottwald, called Ich bin der Welt abhanden gekommen, which I think means "I have become lost to the world," and a piece by another contemporary Scandinavian composer Bengt Hambreus for choir and organ called Motetum Archangeli Michaelis. Afterwards, I took some pictures, but I'll have to take more in daylight and when the weather's better.

Altogether, I'm enjoying myself very much, and getting properly settled in before we take off for Vienna!